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In order to finish drywall, there is a certain process that needs to be completed. It is not complicated- it requires your time, patience, and a little muscle. This process can take up to 1 day and requires your skill level to be between beginner and intermediate. The cost to finish and tape drywall is between $10-$50 dollars depending on the number of materials purchased and how large the drywall you are working on is.

Once the drywall has been put up, one must prepare the surface of the drywall in order to prime and paint which requires you to connect the pieces of drywall to create one solid layer- the wall. The process involves making sure the wall will be extremely smooth, seams and joints will be covered up, and the drywall is completed and ready for the next steps. 

There are two types of drywall tape: paper and fiberglass network. This article will provide a step-by-step tutorial on how to tape drywall using paper tape, from start to finish. Contact Carsie Drywall Taping for more information.

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Equipment Needed

  • Drywall taping knives (6-inch, 10-inch, 12-inch)
  • Drywall taping compound tray to mix and for easier use
  • Screwdriver and hammer (in case it is needed)
  • Mask from dust protection
  • Eye goggles for eye protection

Materials Needed

  • Drywall taping compound
  • Paper tape for drywall
  • Drywall sandpaper
  • Cloths to clean up 
  • Wipe cloth for cleaning in the final step
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Taping Drywall

Taping and mudding drywall is a skilled trade that requires a good deal of training and experience. Drywall taper is a professional who specializes in taping drywall. Taping drywall is a process of applying joint tape to the seams between sheets of drywall, then applying a layer of joint compound over the tape. Once the compound dries, it creates a seamless finish that looks like one continuous piece of drywall. We have explained below taping drywall step by step.


Set up The Surface

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Ensure that all nail or screw heads are nailed down underneath the paper surface of the wallboard. This can be done by taking a taping knife and running it over the surface to check if any of the nails or screws are protruding. The paper surface of drywall provides the holding intensity of the fastener; thus, one should ensure that the paper surface is not broken. Prior to mudding, drag a taping blade over the surface to distinguish clasp that probably won’t be completely recessed, and in the event that you discover any, fix the screws up or drive the nails barely enough to eliminate the deterrent. Furthermore, if any paper is loose from the drywall.

If there any spots with torn paper on the drywall cut or tear them off. These will be obstructions to smooth taping.


Applying the Taping and Mudding 

The paper tape should be implanted in a compound layer, and in this manner, the cycle takes marginally more time than with fibreglass tape.

To begin with, take a scoop of mud and start applying a thin layer smoothly over the drywall joints. Promptly press the tape into the mud, focused over the joint. Starting in the center of the joint and working your way outwards, pull the taping knife over the tape with enough pressure to set it into the compound. Quickly apply another slim layer of compound that slightly covers the tape and fills the joint of the drywall.

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Complete the Corners on The Inside

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Where the two walls meet, use the method as you did with the paper tape to close off the corners on the inside. A thin layer of compounded mud needs to first be applied using a standard 6-inch drywall knife, then fold the paper tape and attach it to the corner of the wall. Slowly add the mud over the paper tape.

For completing inside corners, consider utilizing a pre-assembled corner bead. Some believe this to be a simpler strategy for completing inside corners. The length is easily adjustable and can be placed in the corner that has been applied with mud compound, then covered with two layers of mud compound which will allow it to be completely smooth.


Exterior Corners and Extruding Nails

Over the corners that have metal beads that have been used to cover the exterior corners, require a layer of mud compound on the face of each corner. Furthermore, each nail and screw that is extruding should have a modest quantity of mud compound applied over them. After this process is complete, allow both mud compounds that have been applied to the outer corners and any screws and nails that were sticking out, to dry.

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The Third Layer of Compound

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Take the drywall sandpaper and softly sand the dried compound to eliminate any protruding bumps or texture. Some experts will utilize a drywall knife (preferably the wide 12-inch one) to remove any of the dried compounds that are not smoothed down and have caused ridges- this needs to be done before you start sanding the wall. Once sanded, either use the 10- or 12-inch knife to apply a layer of compound over any joints of the wall. This process allows for the joints in the wall to be flush with the panels of the wall and to hide the paper tape that is under the drywall mudding compound.


Applying the Last Layer

Once the previous step has been completed with care to ensure the sanding left the layer smooth, you need to grab the wide 12-inch knife and use it to apply the final layer of the mudding compound. This would only have to be a light amount as it will smoothly go on. Some experts add a little water to the mud compound for the final layer for a finer finish (mixed thoroughly and no more than 16 ounces of water to a 5-gallon pail of mud compound)

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The Final Step

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Once the compound has dried, sand the dried mudding compound to bring out a smooth finish. If needed, another layer of mud compound can be applied to make sure it can be sanded down to be completely smooth. Clean the surface by wiping it down with a cloth. It is now at the stage where it is ready to be primed, painted over, texturized with treatment or have wallpaper applied to it.

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